Saturday, May 30, 2009

Mold Checklist: If You're Going To Do It Yourself


Because we are professionals and always looking to educate ourselves on our industry, we know that trade magazines are one of the best ways of staying on top of what's going on around us. One of our favorites is Home Energy, an in-depth bi-monthly publication for insulation, ventilation, and home-comfort contractors, as well as scientists and engineers who study energy use and indoor air quality in homes. It's written with professionals in mind, but homeowners can benefit from the content as well (contact Home Energy, 2124 Kittredge St., Berkeley, CA 94704; www.homeenergy.com). It really is the definitive magazine in its subject area.

A recent issue of Home Energy had something very valuable for homeowners, a checklist for diagnosing and remedying mold, which was prepared by Gloria Fultz, publications assistant for Affordable Comfort Inc. (www.affordablecomfort.org). I am going to tweak her checklist a bit. The checklist's most important point, and I agree is that--because mold needs damp conditions to thrive--if you fix the source of dampness then you're halfway toward solving the mold problem. Conversely, if you don't stop the moisture, you'll have the mold problem again and again.

Given how much news coverage has been devoted lately to homeowners in the midst of severe mold problems, the checklist provides a useful overview of the condition and what to do about it.

Key Causes Of Mold And Moisture Problems
Key causes of moisture that lead to mold are plumbing leaks, roof leaks, gaps in window and door flashing, inadequate ventilation in bathrooms and kitchens that fail to discharge moisture to the outside, blocked vents for boilers, water heaters and furnaces that result in moisture-rich combustion gases discharging to the house's interior, and leaky or uninsulated ducts.
Often, mold thrives in basements and in the New York climate, attics. The damp air from there and crawl spaces can cause mold to migrate throughout the house. A number of things can lead moisture through the house's foundation slab and/or the foundation walls and into the basement. One of the chief culprits is an improperly designed or maintained rain-management system (the house's gutters, downspouts and the underground pipes that lead rainwater away from the foundation).

Another source of moisture entry into the basement is from ground water that penetrates the foundation from improperly designed or blocked foundation drains, cracks in the foundation walls or floor and improper grading that leads surface water toward the house rather than away from it.

Basic Cleanup Procedure
1. Get rid of any water and dry out the area.2. Cover or remove nearby furniture. Seal off vents and ducts.3. Wash off surface mold. Although we've always recommended a chlorine bleach solution to do this, the checklist does not. It recommends a foaming solution of baking soda and vinegar or a cleaning solution that includes trisodium phosphate (TSP).4. Dry items that aren't moldy with 48 hours. Dry and clean anything that is salvageable, otherwise bag and discard it.5. Remove and bag all mold-contaminated debris.6. Clean all surfaces, then vacuum the area with a HEPA-filter vacuum.

Assessing Cause And Extent
Mold can be formed beneath finished surfaces. So it's important to do a thorough analysis of the structure to find what's lurking below. I recommend the following:
1. Use a moisture meter to test the dampness of suspect walls and surfaces. If you can't find the source or call a plumber or a professional water mitigation company. Make sure they are certified in Structural Drying. Plumbers will usually charge you for coming out to just find the problem. If you have a broken pipe and you just dont know where the break is obviously you would call a plumber. But if it is just some staining or dampness you are finding call a professional. The usually will not charge you to some out to do an inspection. Usually.
2. Remove a small section of a wall or ceiling if you suspect a hidden problem.
3. Look for peeling paint, stains on siding, or bulges in walls or ceilings that indicate building materials swollen by moisture.
4. Mold usually forms dark patches, but it can appear in other colors. Look for stains along the edge of wallpaper, paneling and baseboards. Pull up or remove a small piece in a suspected area, but stop if you see heavy growth and call a professional.
5. If you find a major problem, seal off the area as best you can from the rest of the house.
Again, after you've found the moisture, you have to trace it back to its source and prevent the moisture from entering the structure.

Finally, if you suspect that you have a severe mold infestation, you need to find a mold-remediation specialist to inspect the structure and recommend how to correct the problem.

If you want to do the work yourself, remember that even small-scale mold removal jobs requires caution. Wear a dust mask capable of filtering mold spores, gloves and goggles. Wear a disposable painter's coverall when doing the work and discard it when the job is done. Ventilation is key also. Seal yourself in the area that you are going to be working using atleast 6-mill plastic and tape. Also use fans to exhaust the air in the area you are working in TO THE OUTSIDE!!!!

1 comment:

  1. Yes where there is less penetration of the light there is an attack pf mold.Great discussion here...got to learn many facts about the problem.

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